The bus took me back to Candasnos, and I embarked on yet another day of trailing the N-II, rarely out of earshot of heavy lorries. There was little shade, but I managed to find two small patches for elevenses and a water stop.
Then I came to the point described as an abandoned petrol station where “we continue along the side of the N-II” and had two pleasant surprises: a café-restaurant where I could have had a proper menu but settled for beer and an apple pastry, and a side road making it unnecessary to walk on the hard shoulder. Soon afterwards, spectacular views towards Fraga, and the long downhill path on which I proceeded with caution.
After dumping my backpack at the hotel, I walked to the old town. The tourist office had closed for the day at 3, and St Peter’s Church was not open, though there might be a Mass at 7 – didn’t hang around to find out. Instead, I went back to the hotel for an evening meal, which turned out to be the menu of the day – cheaper and less of an occasion than I expected.